1622-1627 Marchesa Giovanna Cattaneo by Sir Anthonis van Dyck (Frick Collection, New York City)

Marchesa Giovanna Cattaneo wears a saya with a ruff that comes to a point in the front matching her basque bodice that also comes to a point in front in this 1627 van Dyck portrait. The Wikipedia article for super star artist Sir Anthony van Dyck is here.

This shows a big basque bodice that flares maybe 10-15 cm from the edge of her deep vee waistline. The Marquise is adhering to traditional saya style with hanging sleeves emerging from tabbed openings over long puffed false sleeves. The false sleeves appear to be attached to the bodice; there is no evidence of a coat to support the mass of her hanging sleeves. Her skirt could conceal a traditional Spanish farthingale worthy of the Infanta Isabel Clara Eugenia. Novel elements are the use of colored (black) lace and the vee-edged ruff.

Keywords:  1622, van Dyck, Italian, curly coiffure, high neckline, saya, basque bodice, vee waistline, tabbed sleeves, false sleeves, puffed sleeves, ruff, back flared cuffs, necklace


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