1585-1590 (between) Margherita Gonzaga Este (1564-1618) by Giovanni Bahuet (auctioned by Dorotheum)

Her Wikipedia article is here.

From Wikimedia; flaws at and within the twentieth of the width next to the left edge and the right edge were removed with Photoshop.

DOROTHEUM

This shows how a saya derives from a tight-fitting dress and a surcote above that also provides  redundant hanging sleeves. The buttons could be functional.

Keywords:  Bahuet, Margherita Gonzaga, duchessa di Ferrara Modena e Reggio, Gonzaga family, Este family, Duchess, Italian, straight coiffure, hair jewelry, earrings, jeweled fitted bodice, lace-edged ruff, high enclosing neckline, necklace, jeweled buttons, jeweled long close tapered false sleeves, vee waistline, lace back-flared cuffs, jeweled fur-trimmed surcote, rolled full slashed hanging sleeves, lining, jeweled farthingale, gloves, saya

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