1569 Thought to be Lady Helena Snakenborg, Marchioness of Northampton by ? of British School (Tate Collection, London)

This shows a colorfully dressed lady, possibly Lady Helena Snakenborg, Marchioness of Northampton.

According to Ribeiro and Cumming in The Visual History of Costume, Plate III (1989), this is an "Unknown girl" attributed to the Master of the Countess of Warwick. "Note-The late 1560s saw a preference for brighter, fresher colors set off by enamelled gold jewelry, arranged in a highly distinctive manner, gold braid trimming and strong, naturalistic embroidered patterns.

Head-A small velvet cap decorated with feathers and jeweled roses is perched on the crown of the head, over hair drawn back into a gold caul. A pink, a favorite Elizabethan flower, is tucked behind the left ear.

Body-A double-layered ruff, embroidered in gold, is drawn in completely around the neck; it is complimented by matching wrist ruffs. The partlet has a standing collar edgedwith gold braid and embroidered with the same pattern of roses as the sleeves. The chemise is seen beneath the open front of partlet and bodice. The latter has matching raised shoulder bands (rolls -gogm) through which rounded puffs of the chemise sleeve are pulled. The tightly fitting bodice has a central fastening, the pipedvelvet edges of which have been whipped over with gold thread. Applique panels of gold braid on a black ground decorate the front of the bodice and the shoulder bands. The skirt, matching the plain ground of the bodice swells out from the waistline.

Accessories-A narrow sash acts as a girdle. The emphatic jewelry includes a pearl and gold rope around the neck with a pendnat enamelled gold figure; a ribbon from which an oak-leaf pendnat studded with pearls is pinned asymmetrically to the left breast; and a thick chain is looped up and pinned to the bodice."

Keywords:  1569, Marquise, straight coiffure, high enclosing neckline, neck ruff, French sleeves, jeweled feathered hat, necklace, draped necklace, rings, pendant, cuffs, vee waistline, farthingale

This site is for educational and information use. It is open for downloading and use without charge. I only ask that these images not be used for profit! I can be contacted at:  contactme@gogmsite.net.