This is an outtake from Elizabeth, the Golden Age, showing how a neckline ruff and outer ruff with veil were arranged.
The combination of veil, ruff, and headdress shows up repeatedly. Herbert Norris described how it was done, Tudor Costume and Fashion, pp. 626-7 (Dover re-issue 1997) - "In shape this new veil was a large square of filmy transparent gauze or other material edged all round with cutwork, reticella, or gold or silver lace. One corner was attached to the headdress or coiffure (where the point of an attifet would go and not seen here - gogm) if to the latter, the corner was usually brought well on to the center of the forehead. In the former case it was slightly gathered and fixed to the headdress, whatever shape it might be. It was again gathered or pleated into the nape of the neck, forming a cap over the back of the head. From the nape the edges of the veil were wired out in two large semicircles or three-quarter circles on either side of the head behind the ruff (seen here - gogm), the wire being secured to the bodice just in front of the armpit. This arrangement kept the veil free from entanglement with the ruff and did not impede the movement of the head. From the armpit and from over the shoulders two corners of the veil fell to the feet (Norris used a pair of diagrams with letters omitted from this citation to show this - gogm)."
Keywords: neckline ruff, outer ruff
Nov 7, 2009, 2:39 AM
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