Farthingales began as graceful supports that flattered the wearer with an A-line skirt. Then, especially in England, farthingales became grotesque with the skirt hanging from a circular wheel to form an awkwardly wide cylinder with the bodice and headdress protruding above it. France was more elegant by hiding the wheel.
England started to become the United Kingdom when Queen Elizabeth died in 1603 without producing an heir. A new ruler was needed. The closest suitably Protestant person was James VI of a long-standing enemy, Scotland. James VI went south to become James I of England. However, Catholic-Protestant tension continued throughout the 1600s and beyond. Religious tensions proved lethal for Charles I and drove James II out of the country.
The third Subalbum covers Queen Elizabeth of England whose reign extended from the middle of the sixteenth century into the beginning of the next. The wheel (or drum) farthingales are what many think of as “Elizabethan” fashion.

Lady, probably Alice Spencer, Countess of Derby by circle of Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (auctioned by Sotheby's)

1590 Anne Carew (1520–1587), Lady Throckmorton, Aged 53 by Hieronymus Custodis (Coughton Court - Alcester, Warwickshire, UK)

1590 Lady Bennet attributed to Hieronymus Custodis (Temple Newsam House - Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK)

1599 Lady Margaret, Daughter of Sir William Dormer, Wife of Sir Henry Constable by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Burton Constable Hall -Skirlaugh East Yorkshire UK)

1591 Lady Grace Talbot (1562–after 1625), daughter-in-law of Bess of Hardwick, Mrs. Henry Cavendish by George Gower (Hardwick Hall - Doe Lea, Chesterfield, Derbyshire, UK)

ca. 1591 Erzherzogin Katharina Renea (1576-1595) in schwarzem Kleid by Jakob de Monte (Kunsthistorischesmuseum - Wien Austria)

1590s Lady, traditionally identified as Lady Denman in a black velvet dress with an embroidered bodice and lace apron, lace ruff, jewelled headdress, and hat, holding fan by circle of Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (auctioned by Christie's)

ca. 1593 Countess Emilia of Nassau by Daniël van den Queborn (Collection Historical Society of Orange-Nassau - Den Haag, Holland)

1593 Jeanne de Bourdeille, with one of her daughters holding a miniature of her late husband Antoine de Beaupoil de Sainte-Aulaire, Sénéchal de Perigord by François Quesnel (Weiss Gallery)

Emilia van Nassau by ? (Kasteel Wichen/Raadhuis - Wijchen, Gelderland, Holland) Photo- Ton van der Wal

1590s - Mary Cavendish (1555–1632), Countess of Shrewsbury by ? (Hardwick Hall - Doe Lea, Chesterfield, Derbyshire, UK)

1590s Cicely, Lady Buckhurst, Countess of Dorset attributed to Hieronymus Custodis (Abbot Hall Art Gallery - Kirkland, Kendal, Cumbria, UK)

1590s Elisabeth of Lorraine, granddaughter, 5th surviving daughter of Claude of Valois by ? (Galleria degli Uffizi - Firenze, Toscana, Italy)

1595 Lady Eleanor Percy (1582/1583–1650), afterwards Lady Powis, age 13, by ? (Powis Castle - Welshpool, Powys, UK)

1595 Anna of Pomerania, Duchess of Mecklenburg-Güstrow by Cornelius Krommeny (Doberaner Münster - Bad Doberan, Mecklenburg, Mecklenburg-Vorpommern (?))

ca. 1595 Catherine Killigrew by ? (Colchester and Ipswich Museums Service, specific location unknown to gogm)

1614 Catherine Killigrew, Lady Jermyn by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Yale Center for British Art, Yale University - New Haven, Connecticut, USA)

1596 Anne, Lady Pope with her children from her first marriage by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (National Portriat Gallery - London UK)

ca. 1597 Catherine Carey, Countess of Nottingham by Robert Peake the Elder (Weiss Gallery - London UK)

1598 Unknown lady of the Talbot family by ? (Fitzwilliam Museum, University of Cambridge - Cambridge, Cambridgeshire. UK)

1599 Sarah Blount, Countess of Leicester, wife of Robert Sidney, Earl of Leicester by ? (location unknown to gogm)

1599 Alice, daughter of John Sherman of Ottery in manner of Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (auctioned by Sotheby's)

1599 Lady Margaret, Daughter of Sir William Dormer, Wife of Sir Henry Constable by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Burton Constable Hall - Skirlaugh East Yorkshire UK)

ca. 1600 Woman, Traditionally Identified as Mary Clopton (born Waldegrave), of Kentwell Hall, Suffolk by Robert Peake the Elder (Yale Center for British Art - New Haven, Connecticut, USA)

ca. 1600 Dorothy Bonham, Dame Dorothy Selby in the manner of Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Ightham Mote - Sevenoaks, Kent, UK)

1595-1605 Lady, identified as Elizabeth Howard, daughter of Charles, 1st Earl of Nottingham by ? (auctioned by Christie's)

ca. 1600 Susanne de la Brisollières by Charles Martin (Muzeum Narodowe w Warszawie - Warszawa, Poland)

ca. 1600 Susanne de la Brisollières by Charles Martin (Muzeum Narodowe w Warszawie - Warszawa, Poland)

Anne Catherine of Brandenburg (1575 –1612) Qeen-consort of Denmark and Norway from 1597 to 1612 by ? (location ?)

1601 Probably Mary, Lady Scudamore, née Shelton, by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Yale University, Yale Center for British Art - New Haven, Connecticut, USA)

ca. 1601 Frances Howard, dowager Countess of Kildare (c.1572 - 1628), later Baroness Cobham by ? (private collection)

Three figures, said to be contessa Constanza Machiavelli and her two daughters by ? (auctioned by Sotheby's)

1605-1610 Princess Louise Marguerite de Lorraine, duchesse de Conti by ? (Musée Condé - Chantilly, Picardie, France)

Giovanna Basadonne Doria (?), figlia del patrizio genovese Giovanni Basadonne, conte di Gallata, e Regina Felicia Doria by Paulus Moreelse (location ?)

1607 Marchesa Veronica Spinola Doria by Peter Paul Rubens (Kunsthalle Karlsruhe - Karlsruhe, Baden-Württemberg, Germany)

1606 Elizabeth Manners, Countess of Rutland, costume designed by Inigo Jones, 1606 by John de Critz the Elder (location ?)

1606 Anne Carew, Lady Apsley, née Anne Bell, second wife of Sir Allen Apsley by ? (Buckland Abbey - Yelverton, Devon UK)

ca. 1607 Marchesa Maria Grimaldi and Her Dwarf by Peter Paul Rubens (Kingston Lacy - Wimborne Minster, Dorset, UK)

Ernestine Yolande (1594-1663), Princess of Ligne by Jan Anthonisz. van Ravesteyn (Mauritshuis - Den Haag Netherlands)

1609 Princess Elizabeth of Brunswick-Wolfenbuttel (1593-1650), later Duchess of Saxe-Altenberg attributed to Jacob van Doort (Royal Collection) From Pinterest search

1609 Dorothea of Brunswick-Lüneburg, Margravine of Brandenburg attributed to Jacob van Doort (Royal Collection)

1609 Unknown Lady, Aged 31, Holding a Glove and a Fan in the style of Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Nostell Priory - Wakefield, West Yorkshire UK)

Lady Croke (1588–1638), née Brigette Hawtrey, last of the Hawtrey Family attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the younger (Chequers Court - Ellesborough, Buckinghamshire, UK)

ca. 1609-1610 Young woman with rosary or Isabella Margherita Farnese by Peter Paul Rubens (Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza - Madrid, Spain)

ca. 1610 Dorothy, Lady Done, née Wilbraham by circle of Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Grosvenor Museum - Chester, Cheshire, UK)

1610 Lady Mary Waters Honeywood, née Attwater, (1527-1620) attributed to Cornelis Johnson van Ceulen (North Carolina Museum of Art - Raleigh, North Carolina, USA)

1610 Unknown woman, formerly known as Cecilia Vasa, 1540-1627, Princess of Sweden. by ? (Nationalmuseum - Stockholm or Gripsolm slott)

ca. 1615-20 Elizabeth Home, Countess of Suffolk possibly by ? (once attributed to Paul van Somer) (Kenwood House - Hampstead, London UK)

1612-1624 Margareta Grip (1586-1624), married in 1612 with Field Marshal Herman Wrangel in his first marriage by ? (Skoklosters slott -Stockholm, Sweden)

ca. 1613 Elisabeth Sophie Hohenzollern (1589-1629), wife of Janusz Radziwiłł by ? (Belarusian National Arts Museum - Minsk Belarus)

ca. 1610-1616 Margaret Arundel/Lady Weston attributed to Robert Peake the Younger (location unknown to gogm)

1610s cutwork and stem stitch embroidery with reticella and punto in aria border (Metropolitan Museum of Art - New York City, New York, USA)

Anne Hawtrey, Wife of John Saunder, Daughter of Sir William Hawtrey by follower of Robert Peake (Chequers Court - Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, UK)

1615 Margaret Hay, Countess of Dunfermline by Marcus Gheeraerts (Dunedin Public Art Gallery - Dunedin, South Island New Zealand)

ca. 1615 Lady Anne Sackville, Lady Beauchamp (1586–1664) or Frances Prynne or Prinne, Lady Seymour of Trowbridge (d.1626) by William Larkin (Petworth House and Park - Petworth, West Sussex, UK)

ca. 1615 Alternate Lady Anne Sackville, Lady Edward Seymour, later Lady Edward Lewis (but inscribed as 'Frances Prynne or Prinne, d.1626, Lady Seymour of Trowbridge') attributed to William Larkin (Petworth House - Petworth, West Sussex, UK)

ca. 1615 Mary, Lady Vere by William Larkin (National Gallery of Victoria - Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)

ca. 1616 Woman, possibly Frances Cotton, Lady Montagu, of Boughton Castle, Northamptonshire by Robert Peake the Elder (Yale Center for British Art - New Haven, Connecticut, USA)

Elizabeth Bassett, Countess of Newcastle attributed to William Larkin (Kenwood House - Hampstead, London UK)

1616 Elizabeth Poulett by Robert Peake The Elder (Berger Collection, Denver Art Museum - Denver, Colorado, USA)

ca. 1616 British linen, silk, and metal jacket (Metropolitan Museum of Art - New York City, New York USA)

Lettice Knollys, daughter of Henry Knollys, Lady Paget, granddaughter of Catherine Carey, great-granddaughter of Mary Boleyn by ? (location ?)

1600-1625 British linen, embroidered with silk and metal thread, and spangles jacket (Victoria and Albert Museum - London UK)

1600-1625 British linen, embroidered with silk and metal thread, and spangles jacket (Victoria and Albert Museum - London UK) as worn

Lady Frances Cavendish (1595–1613), Lady Maynard by Marcus Gheeraerts the younger (Hardwick Hall - Doe Lea, Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England)

1610-1615 British jacket linen plain weave, embroidered with silk and metallic threads and spangles - metallic bobbin lace (Mueum of Fine Arts - Boston, Massachusetts USA)

ca. 1614 Mary Lygon Bromley, daughter of Sir William Lygon and Elizabeth Harewell, b.1597, married to Henry Bromley of Upton, Esq. (of Worcestershire) by ? (location ?)

1615-1618 Lady Mary Beaumont Villiers, first Countess of Buckingham by Robert Peake the Elder (private collection)

1617 Lady in masquing dress, possibly Lady Thornhagh (d. 1660) by William Larkin (private collection)

1615-1620 Cecily Manners, née Tufton, Countess of Rutland by ? (Colchester and Ipswich Museums Service, specific location ? - Ipswich, Suffolk, UK)

ca. 1614-1618 Lady Dorothy Carey (?), later Viscountess Rochford by William Larkin (Ranger's House - London UK)

1615 Mary Throckmorton, Lady Scudamore by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (National Portrait Gallery - London, UK)

1615 Catherine Knevet (also spelled Knyvett), Countess of Suffolk by William Larkin (Kenwood House, London UK)

ca. 1615-1620 Elizabeth Grey (1582–1651), Countess of Kent by Paulus van Somer the Elder (Lamport Hall - Lamport, Northamptonshire UK)

Frances Villiers, nee Coke Viscountess Purbeck by Michiel van Miereveldt (Ashdown House, Hungerford Berkshire UK)

Lady, either Anne Spencer (d.1618), Countess of Dorset or Elizabeth Shephard, (d. 1619), Lady Cranfield, by ? (Knole - Sevenoaks, Kent, UK)

ca. 1617 Cecilia Nevill (or Cecily Neville), wife of Fitzwilliam Coningsby of Hampton Court, Herefordshire by Robert Peake (location ?)

1617 Catharina van den Bergh by Jan Anthonisz. van Ravesteyn (Elisabeth Weeshuis Museum - Culemborg, Gelderland, Holland)

1618 Barbara Sophie of Brandeburg by Georg Donauer (Landesmuseum Württemberg, Alten Schloss und im Fruchtkasten - Stuttgart, Baden-Württemberg, Germany, specific location unknown)

ca. 1619 Elizabeth, née Pierrepoint Countess of Kellie by Paul van Somer (Yale Center for British Art - New Haven, Connecticut, USA)

ca. 1619 Lady Frances Stanley by Paul van Somer (Ashridge Business School, Egerton collection - Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire UK)

ca. 1618-1620 Elizabeth Knollys, née Howard (1586–1658), Viscountess Wallingford, later Countess of Banbury attributed to Daniel Mytens (Kenwood - Hampstead, London, UK)

1619 Portrait of Christian, Lady Cavendish, née Bruce, later Countess of Devonshire and her daughter by Paul van Somer (North Carolina Museum of Art - Raleigh, North Carolina, USA)

ca. 1635 Christian Cavendish, Countess of Devonshire by Sir Anthonis van Dyck (Columbus Museum of Art - Columbus, Ohio, USA)

Lady of the Boleyn Family attributed to Anthonis Mor (Colchester and Ipswich Museums Service, specific location unknown to gogm)

ca. 1619 Vere Egerton, attributed to Robert Peake (Dunham Massey - Borough of Trafford, Greater Manchester UK)

"ca. 1629" Young noblewoman by Daniel Mytens the Elder (Norton Simon Museum - Los Angeles, California, USA)

1620 Dama della famiglia Capodilista by Chiara Varotari (Museo Civico di Padova - Padova, Veneto, Italy)

ca. 1620 Margaret Stuart, Lady Mennes, great-great granddaughter of Mary Boleyn attributed to Cornelius Janssens van Ceulen (Roy Precious Antiques and Fine Art)
