ca. 1500 copy of 1445-1450 Isabella of Portugal by Rogier van der Weyden studio (Getty Museum - Los Angeles, California USA)

The Wikipedia article for Rogier van der Weyden is here.

Isabella of Portugal is shown wearing a "henin," the late medieval veiled headdress that is almost a fashion trademark for the entire Middle Ages.

Picking up Wikipedia's article on 1400s fashion:  "...Around 1450, the gown of northern Europe developed a low V-neck that showed a glimpse of the square-necked kirtle. The neckline could be filled in with a sheer linen partlet. Wide turn-backs like revers displayed a contrasting lining, frequently of fur or black velvet, and the sleeves might be cuffed to match. Sleeves were very long, covering half of the hand, and often highly decorated with embroidery. Fine sleeves were often transferred from one dress to another..."

The deep vee neckline, on its own would be immodest, so the undergarment cuts off the descent of the vee to form a trapezoid. The contrasting material revers came back in the 1600s and throughout the ancién regime 1700s.

Keywords:  1445, van der Weyden, Portugese, veil, horned headdress, trapezoidal neckline, modesty piece, long full sleeves, revers, sash, necklace, rings


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