This impressive waffle dress is located at the Victoria and Albert Museum that has this note about it: "This is a magnificent example of English court dress of the mid-18th century. It would have been worn by a woman of aristocratic birth for court events involving the royal family. The style of this mantua was perfectly suited for maximum display of wealth and art; this example contains almost 10lb weight of silver thread worked in an elaborate 'Tree of Life' Design. The train is signed 'Rec'd of Mdme Leconte by me Magd. Giles'. The name Leconte has been associated with Huguenot embroideresses working in London between 1710 and 1746. The Huguenots were French Protestants who, following the repressive measures against them that the Catholic monarch Louis XIV of France restarted in 1685, emigrated to Britain and elsewhere.
Descriptive line
Court Mantua dress, England, 1740-1745.
Physical description
A court mantua composed of gown, petticoat and stomacher. Made of silk which bears silver embroidery in a Tree of Life design. The back of the bodice is pleated and stitched, double pleats running over the shoulders to form robings which merge with the skirt. These are draped into basques with inner, silver cords looped over wound silver buttons attached to the back. The skirt is folded, sides to centre; the end, embroidered in a lighter style, drapes up and is attached to the low back. The sleeves are elbow length and narrow, turn-back cuffs, seamed in the bend of the arm, so as to have a slight winged effect. The bodice is lined with white silk. The petticoat is embroidered all over its seven breadths and is shaped to accommodate narrow, side hoops, six feet across at their widest point. Under its silver embroidery there are traces of coloured silk, suggesting a change in design part way through making.
Inscribed beneath the embroidery on the under side of the train is 'Recd of Mdme Lecomte by me Magd. Giles'.
Mantua Style: A mantua with an open front and revers, elbow length sleeve ending in a pleated wing cuff. The pleated back extends into a long train with extended skirts at the side for looping up.
Construction: The back and train are 1 length of silk, pleated to shape. The skirts and train are embroidered on the reverse of fabric just below the waist so that the right side will show correctly when the mantua skirt is looped and draped.
Design: Embroidered in Tree of Life design with scrolling stems and leaves. The embroidery design has been adapted to occupy the smaller spaces of sleeves, cuff and revers.
Alterations: Extra fabric has been added either side of train to maintain the silk width. Alterations have been made, probably early 20th century in the bodice to adapt to fancy dress.
Petticoat Style: An ankle length, back fastening petticoat of a wide, flat shape to be worn over square hoops.
Construction: Seven panels of silk sewn selvedge to selvedge and then embroidered. Back seam was done after embroidery. Shaped opening at the waist, with a back slit and tie tapes fastening in the back. Top side corners are pleated with inverted diagonal folds.
Design: Embroidery is executed in a symmetrical 'Tree of Life' design with scrolling stems and large leaves originating from a dense swag and lattice border at hem, pattern opening up as it reaches the top. Some embroidery done originally in coloured silks, then covered over with silver thread.
Alterations: top seam has been let down and resewn several times; three lines of stitching visible. Restructured for fancy dress in 1920s. Insertions by Tex Cons and repleating of corners for mounting purposes. Cotton lining added by Tex Cons."
Keywords: 1740, Leconte, British, square neckline, modesty piece, stomacher, revers, elbow length tight sleeves, cuffs, engageantes, lace, basques, buttons, natural waistline, panniers, maxi-length skirt, mantua